I know exactly where I was when Urban Decay's original Naked palette launched: Sitting in a shabby summer dorm room in Paris, calling my mother long-distance to beg her to get me the $45 palette as an early birthday present. In those pre-Instagram days, I don't remember how I knew it had dropped, but with the fervor of someone who took any chance to detour into Sephora, I knew it would complete me. It was my go-to for years, but the name "Urban Decay" now takes on an unpleasant irony — because Teflon, listed under the name "PTFE," is on the label. And that's bad news for everyone.
As a study published by researchers at the University of Notre Dame in mid-June found, the problem extends far beyond one palette. After testing more than 200 cosmetics, including concealers, foundations, eye and eyebrow products and various lip products, scientists found that 52 percent of all the cosmetics they tested contained high levels of fluorine, which is an indicator of PFAS — per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances — in the products.
So how do you shop for cosmetics that don't have PFAS in them when so many are flying under the radar? Peaslee says if it has "remarkable properties of being long-lasting or waterproof, those are the ones that most likely contain PFAS." If you're not sure, he recommends a simple test: Paint a piece of paper with a swatch of your lipstick or mascara, put a drop of water on it, and see if it's there the next morning. If it is, there's PFAS; .if the water soaks into the paper within seconds, there's not.
Sound complicated? Senators Susan Collins (R-ME) and Richard Blumenthal (D-CT) introduced the No PFAS in Cosmetics Act in June, although it's unclear when the act will pass or take effect. Until then, Peaslee suggests brands place a "PFAS-free" designation on their labels — and while that's yet to come, brands like It Cosmetics have already taken steps to remove PFAS from popular products (look for ingredients "perfluorohexane," "perfluorodecalin," and "pentafluoropropane" to know if you have the old formulas).